Also, it is only 14mm thick which isn't as thick as it looks, either. I, personally, would have liked more than 30 meters of water resistance, for this price range, in a unit that appears to be a sport watch. The dial is clear and the best part of the watch; I like the large Arabic numerals and colorful display. I don't, however, believe that the hands needed to be skeletonized - that just doesn't feel necessary. This piece has a mineral crystal which is just barely acceptable on a watch at this price point; any more and I would certainly demand sapphire crystal.
Giveaway Watch 3: RedSea Six Pounder or Holystone
Last night I was watching an episode of Pawn Stars, and when I saw this watch I amusingly wondered to myself what those guys would make of it if someone brought it in. Now that would make for a fun segment. Trying to have an appraiser dissect the watch and see what makes it tick to figure out "what is this?" I mean if you aren't in the watch world and someone handed you this, a "WTF?" would not be out of line. Jacob & Co. went to great lengths to make sure the design was unique and caught attention. The type of attention it catches is really up to the beholder right?
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They say that eyes are a window to one's soul. That may be true, but so are your hands. You may not have noticed it, but hands are extremely communicative when people talk. Either hands are part of elaborate Italian-style gesticulation, or they offer more subtle signs as to how someone is feeling. When communicating with others we almost always notice their hands. Think about it the next few times you are talking to someone. Close to the hands are the wrists, and one one of those wrists could be a watch.
Dial: unstructured, silver-toned opaline
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While the watch is loud, Devon does include a "quiet mode." In this mode the watch stops showing the time and goes silent. Internally it still tells the time, but doesn't show it until you de-activate quiet mode. It is a good idea that Devon included this. You can learn more about quiet mode and how to operate the Devon Tread 1 by looking at the online instructions manual here.
The Paul Newman Daytona - next to the Submariner range, this is of the most well-known collectible Rolex watches out there. There is a sort of mythos around the watch given the ambiguous connection to the movie star/pop culture hero, and the extreme fame that the Daytona collection later had. The story of the Paul Newman Daytona is a bit convoluted and complex. There was not just one watch, and Rolex never officially called any piece the Paul Newman Daytona.
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The exhibit is a very intimate view into what a man with good taste and a big bank roll gets for his car collection. Immaculately maintained, the collection contains some of the finest and most beautiful looking automobiles ever imagined. While there I realized something. Call it a theory, but I think there is some truth to it. Why is it that many vintage cars and vintage watches embody a certain sense of grace and beauty not found in much of today's designs? I truly believe that one of the reasons for this (of course if you agree with me that many things today aren't particularly graceful) is because items today are designed on a computer, and older things were designed by hand. This shift from hand to paper versus hand through mouse/tablet to computer digitally and expressed via small squares on a screen might be a major reason. Think about it.
Hands are classic aviator style and a matter of taste. The applied hour markers are thick and sit atop a black ring with a concentric circle texturing on it. Tutima features recessed chronograph subdials which have designs based on classic pilot watches and gauges. Of course, I highly appreciate that all hands on the dial are the proper size. For the most part, the dial is very well-done save for the smaller hands that can blend into the dial in certain types of light. The hour and minute hands are always easy to see.
21 Blackjack tech specs from Christophe Claret:
Movement Mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre BLJ08, twin barrel, 50 components, 40 jewels and 7 double sets of ceramic ball bearings, frequency 28,800 v/h (4 Hz), power reserve of about 72 hours
Functions Hour, minute, three games: blackjack with bell, roulette and dice
Case White gold and grade 5 black PVD titanium; pink gold and grade 5 black PVD titanium; platinum and grade 5 black PVD titanium; grade 5 black PVD titanium, or grade 5 grey titanium. Diameter: 45 mm
Two side windows, one revealing the striking mechanism hammer and bell, the other a pair of dice
Titanium or titanium/gold crowns
Watertight to 3 atm
Dial Titanium and grey sapphire with a plaque decorated with casino-related motifs (card games, Las Vegas or Joker), or black onyx
Black PVD/ruby or gold/ceramic hands
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- three “dealer” windows, two of which are activated by a button pushpiece at 10 o’clock with bell
- four “player” windows, three of which are activated by a button pushpiece at 8 o’clock with bell
1. Comment on this post below with your valid e-mail address where required. In the body of your comment mention a few watch brands that you'd look at when buying watch gifts for your friends and family.
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Producing their own movement has more to do with practicality than it does image. For years Swatch Group owned ETA has been threatening to no longer supply brands with movements. Ulysse Nardin has long since relied on ETA bases for its mainstream movements which are then modified by Ulysse Nardin. The brand’s highest-end Ulysse Nardin pieces are another story. Delays, price increases, or complete lack of parts from ETA would be an unwelcome eventuality to say the least. The overall sentiment in the watch industry right now is that no matter what happens at ETA, the outcome in unpredictable. This has led to a surge of innovation and investments, whereby non-Swatch Group brands are either making their own movements, or looking for suppliers elsewhere. Ulysse Nardin as a high-end brand, would of course like to dictate its future as much as possible. They are among a rare breed of successful, but independent watch brands remaining in Switzerland.
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The roulette wheel spins as it is the automatic rotor, but here is a little different. The rotor has a minor stop mechanism to stop to a halt in one of the fixed positions when it loses momentum. This causes the little arrow (versus a ball) to stop at a specific spot on the roulette wheel scale. Don't miss the set green emerald on the rear of the case above 17 between the engraved "Lucky Number" statement. I guess 17 is someone's lucky number. I think the roulette wheel detailing is gorgeous, and Claret's integration of it with the automatic winding system is not only efficient, but also clever.
Inside the C60 Trident GMT is a Swiss ETA 2893 automatic GMT movement. For those new to the game, this movement offers an independently adjustable 24 hour hand that allows you either to track your local time in a 24 hour format, or allows you to track a second timezone. Using the rotating bezel, you can technically track a third time zone as well. This is one of the most affordable watches that I know of that contains this movement. By the way, this C60 Trident GMT reference number is C60-GMT-SKWS. When visiting Christopher Ward's website you'll find eleven versions of the watch so far. This includes both GMT and non-GMT models, as well as those with straps or bracelets. You can even get one with a red and blue "Pan Am Pepsi" dial.
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Pinup art is a specially honored American tradition - especially for service men. For a long time crews would celebrate their aircraft by painting images of women and other things as tokens of good luck just as sailors use to do with figureheads on the bows of ships. I wonder if that happens anymore today as much? Done by Geneva-based artist Isabelle Villa, the limited edition HM4 Razzle Dazzle and Double Trouble watches have hand-painted figures on the sides of the watch case. These cheeky figures are fun but tasteful (as is the Swiss way).
Winding of the watch in position 0, clock wise
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At 42mm wide the watch here is in steel. Oddly enough watch brands have been pairing steel cases with high-end movements a lot lately. I don't really get it. Especially as they are not priced like steel watches. Sure the steel they use is nice, but it is inherently a cheap metal compared to white gold for example. Vacheron Constantin likes to say that this is the most complicated movement they have ever put in a steel Overseas watch. I believe them, and for the privilege of having one you'll pay around 60 grand.
For fun the chronograph pushers look a bit like engine pistons. On the rear of the watch is Jacky Ickx signature and some limited edition graphics. For the record, I think that almost every Jacky Ickx watch (from and brand) has his signature on the dial or elsewhere on the watch. I am not sure of the exact movement inside of these pieces. According to Chopard they are built on a Swiss ETA 2892 automatic base with a chronograph and big date module. The movements have power reserves of 40 hours and are COSC Chronometer certified. In addition to the 24 hour chronograph and big date, you should know that the chronograph has a flyback function and the time is a stop seconds (which means the seconds stop when you pull out the crown).
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Chaumet's offering in this arena is the Class One range. Compared to some of the other high-end fashion houses the Chaumet Class One has a wide assortment of options and styles. In addition to three-hand, GMT, and chronograph models, the Class One has been offered in a large range of looks and sizes (for men and women). For me the best model is the Class One XXL that is 45mm wide and offered in steel and titanium, titanium, or in rose gold. This size has the GMT and Chronograph version, and I think they are fun looking, sporty divers that will appeal to those who want something a bit different - at least in the US. Chaumet is a brand not sold in the US - so as far as I know having a Chaumet might be a lot more common in other parts of the world such as France or Japan. I think the first time I saw Chaumet watches in person was in London at their store within a store in Harrods.
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph
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